EXPN.com AXQ Rules and Regulations - Sport Climbing (bouldering)

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Rules and Regulations

Rules and Regulations - Sport Climbing (bouldering)

Venue:   Phuket Island, Thailand
Competitors:   50 (+ or -) Men; 16 (+ or -) Women
Judges:   2 Route Judges and a Chief Judge
Duration of Climb:
Quarterfinal Round: 3 minutes (Climbing Cycle)
Semifinal Round: 3 minutes (Climbing Cycle)
Final Round: 3 minutes (Climbing Cycle)

Competition Format:
Quarterfinal Round:
There are 2 bouldering routes. The climbing order will be determined by a random draw. Each competitor has one time-limited opportunity, measured in a fixed number of minutes, to climb each route. This is defined as the "Climbing Cycle." Each competitor may make as many attempts as he wishes on a given route within the given "Climbing Cycle." The top 24 Men and top 16 Women competitors will advance into the Semifinal Round.

Semifinal Round:
Same procedure as Quarterfinal Round. The climbing order will be the reverse order of the Quarterfinal Round leaderboard (i.e., #24 - #1 Men; #16 -#1 Women). Competitors are placed on the new leaderboard ranked 1-24 Men and 1-16 Women based on their Semifinal Round Score.

Final Round:
Same procedure as Semifinal Round. The climbing order will be the reverse order of the Semifinal leaderboard (i.e., #8 - #1). Competitors are placed on the new leaderboard ranked 1-8 based on their Final Round Score.

Note: Before the Semifinal Round and Final Round of competition, practice sessions will be scheduled where climbers may practice in mass the routes for the upcoming round of competition. Climbers will be expected to observe rules of fair play during any practice! A climber's performance during practice has absolutely no bearing on competition results!

Competition Flow:
Quarterfinal Round:
For each route, each climber will either: complete the route; have his or her attempt terminated; or experience a technical. Climbers will flow from Route #1 to Rest Zone to Route #2. The time in the Rest Zone will be equivalent to a Climbing Cycle. The Resting Zone is located between Route 1 and Route 2.

Semifinal Round:
Same procedure as Quarterfinal Round.

Final Round:
Same procedure as the Semifinal Round.

Note: Competition flow will alternate back and forth between Women and Men (e.g., Women's Bracket A to Men's Bracket A to Women's Bracket B to Men's Bracket B, etc.)

Starting and Rotation Procedure:
Under the direction of the Chief Judge, the first climber to begin his/her Bouldering Rotation is positioned on the crash pads, with his/her back to the wall.

The Chief Judge will begin the Start Sequence:

"Climber set" Climber assumes a stationary position still with his/her back to the wall.

The Chief Judge or his designee sounds a horn (single blast) and starts a clock beginning that Climbing Cycle. The climber may then turn around and begin his/her attempt. The Route Judges will give a "one minute remaining" warning to all climbers. Climbers may ask Route Judges for time remaining in the Climbing Cycle at any time. At the end of the Climbing Cycle, the Chief Judge or his designee sounds a horn (single blast) that simultaneously ends all climbers' attempts and begins the next Climbing Cycle.

Computation of Scores:
route one maximum score:
route two maximum score: Each route will have a maximum score based on the maximum number of recognized moves for that route.

route one moves score:
route two moves score: For each route, each climber will receive a moves score that reflects the highest number of recognized moves that the climber executed on any individual attempt on that route within the Climbing Cycle.

route one score:
route two score: For each route this is the moves score divided by the maximum score, carried to 2 decimal places. For example, the route one moves score divided by the route one maximum score.

average score: Each climber is dynamically assigned the following values:
after route one: the route one score
after route two: (the route one score plus the route two score)/2

quarterfinal round score: is the running average score after route 2.
Note: All scores will be displayed to 2 decimal places.

route one attempt score:
route two attempt score: For each route, each climber will receive an attempt score that reflects the attempt number on which the climber first achieved the highest number of moves on that route.

running total attempts score: is the running summation of each climber's individual route attempt scores.

quarterfinal attempts score: is the running total attempts score after route 2.

Semifinal Round:
Same procedure as Quarterfinal Round.

Final Round:
Same procedure as Semifinal Round.

Definitions:
Attempt: Each time a climber's body completely leaves the ground while starting a route. A climber must always begin each attempt on the designated starting holds or in the designated starting area. Starting holds and/or starting area will be clearly marked. An attempt is successful when the final hold is controlled. The Route Judge will determine if the final hold is controlled. For confirmation, climbers may look to the Route Judge who will announce "OK" and give a "thumbs up" signal. Final holds will be clearly marked.

Resolving Ties:
Quarterfinal Round:
If two or more climbers have identical Quarterfinal Round Scores at the conclusion of the Quarterfinal Round then the tied climbers' Quarterfinal Attempts Scores will be used to break the tie. If still tied, then the tied climbers' route scores and attempts scores on the two routes, will be compared ( 1st - route scores; 2nd - attempts scores) route by route in order of difficulty from most difficult to least difficult, in an effort to break the tie. Note: Routes will be ranked based on the cumulative route scores of the complete field on each route. If the fixed quota for the Semifinal Round (i.e., top 24 Men competitors) is exceeded as a result of tied places, the number of competitors nearest to the fixed quota (when calculated above and below) shall qualify for the Semifinal Round. For example, if 3 competitors tied for Rank #23, then 25 competitors advance into the Semifinal Round; if 3 competitors tied for Rank #24, then 23 competitors advance into the Semifinal Round. If the amount calculated above and below is equal, then the lower number advances into the Semifinal Round. For example, if 4 competitors tied for Rank #23, then 22 competitors advance into the Semifinal Round. Ties will be broken randomly for the purpose of determining running order in the Semifinal Round.

Semifinal Round:
Same procedure as Quarterfinal Round except if still tied, then the position of each climber on the Quarterfinal Round leaderboard will be used to break the tie.

Final Round:
Same procedure as Semifinal Round except if still tied, then the position of each climber on the Semifinal Round leaderboard will be used to break the tie. If still tied, then the position of each climber on the Quarterfinal Round leaderboard will be used to break the tie.

Appeal Process:
An athlete may only file a protest within one minute following the end of relevant Climbing Cycle. Once filed, the Chief Judge shall make the final and binding decision before the next Climbing Cycle begins.

Termination of an Attempt on a Route:
A competitor's attempt terminates for the following:
a) Exceeding the allotted climbing time for the route;
b) Returning to the ground before successfully completing the route;
c) Touching any part of the wall surface beyond the marked boundaries of the route (this is at the discretion of the judges);
d) Using any artificial aid.

Exiting the Route:
A climber wishing to voluntarily exit the climbing route has only three options:
a) Drop;
b) Climb down using the hand holds; and,
c) If the climber completes the route successfully, which is defined as controlling the last hold, then the climber may elect to climb over the top of the wall and exit via scaffolding stairs.

Disqualification:
A climber will be disqualified and immediately removed from further competition if the climber uses the side edges or top edges of the wall without first successfully completing the route (at the discretion of the judges).

Technical Incidents:
A Route Judge or a competitor may declare a technical incident. The Route Judge will decide whether to grant a technical. A technical incident is defined as follows:

a) A climbing hold breaks or spins;
b) Any other occurrence that results in a disadvantage or unfair advantage to a competitor which is not the result of an action on the part of the competitor excluding inclement weather.

At the time the technical incident is called, the Route Judge will write down the time remaining as displayed on the countdown clock for the current Climbing Cycle. This time is called the Time Left.

a) If the climber elects to continue his or her attempt, then the wall will not be repaired until the climber's current attempt is terminated. Note: In the case where the current attempt is unsuccessful, Time Left will be adjusted to the time the climber first returns to the ground.

b) If the climber elects to terminate the current attempt immediately, or the current attempt is terminated as a result of the technical incident, then the wall will be repaired immediately.

From the time the wall is repaired and declared ready for further attempts, the climber will be granted a Technical Remedy Window (TRW) that is the Time Left plus 90 seconds. The climber may use the TRW to continue with further attempts on the route or the climber may elect to waive the TRW and any further attempts. Note: A climber's next attempt after a technical incident will be a continuation of the attempt in which the technical incident occurred. If the climber elected to continue climbing during the attempt in which the technical incident occurred, then the next attempt will not be a continuation.

From the time the wall is repaired, if the climber completes the TRW by the end of the Climbing Cycle, then the Bouldering Rotation continues normally.

From the time the wall is repaired, if the TRW extends past the end of the Climbing Cycle, then the Bouldering Rotation for all competitors will be suspended until the TRW is completed. Upon completion of the TRW the Bouldering Rotation for all competitors will resume immediately. The Bouldering Rotation will commence with the start of the next Climbing Cycle.

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