Spanish Scene
By Andrew Hume
Jul. 22, 2001

For the athletes, coming here to Barcelona is much more than another competition. Most have travelled long distances to a country that they may not have even been to before. Sure, they are working (competing) during the day, but just like we pedestrians they want to relax in their off time. Barcelona offers many opportunities for nighttime relaxation. All of her bars serve booze, and booze has a way of simplifying relaxation.

Nearly all of the literature written about Spain has some mention of the nightlife. Rightly so, as nightlife seems to be an integral part of the Spanish lifestyle, throughout the age rainbow. When I first moved to Spain, the nightlife and I had a bit of a struggle. I had grown accustomed to American university bar joy. I considered myself a decent party-man. I had my plans to come to Spain; I'd heard of the long weekend hours and was warned, but I figured I'd dive in and float right up to the top of discoteca nightlife. Granted, I wasn't wearing keg backpacks or jumping off any fraternity balconies back in the States, but I thought myself in good party shape.

Dancing queen

On my first night in the country, I went out at ten and by three I was completely wasted. The bars in the U.S. would have been closed for an hour already, but that was no excuse. I was a naïve American boozehound and went home early with my tail between my legs. I have since learned pacing techniques and grown some serious stamina (ladies?).

I have become at least somewhat bar savvy here, but these hours continue to torture virgin tourists. An Anglo woman vomiting out a cab window at a meagre 1 a.m. this morning exemplified this touristic naiveté. It is simply compulsory that one have some serious mental toughness or drink slowly to last an entire night in Barcelona.

The main party zone of Barcelona is on La Rambla, a pedestrian street that goes through the popular Barri Gotic part of town. This is the main tourist district and the bars are very crowded, but fun. They're generally similar to American style bars and only stay open until about three. There are also discotecas in this area that stay open into the early morning, but they generally require a cover charge.

As most of the competitors and participants are staying near the Port Olimpic area, the bars within the port have become the unofficial X Games Qualifiers booze zone. Along Moll de Mestral, a street that is seriously about a 30 second walk from the Games, there are far too numerous bars. Most of them are pretty typical Spanish style "disco-pubs," small one-room bars that play very loud Spanish pop and Euro house music. They play the favourites, as in any other Spanish city. The current hits include "Yo Quiero Bailar" and "Mayonesa," both of which nearly every bar along this street will play at least twice a night.

We love Jack

All of the bars also have outdoor patio seating, as well, and go-go dancers. Yes, go-go dancers. Every bar has at least one on the bar or a few together on a separate stage. Some of them dance on poles and hump each other. It is rather strange to have a greased-chested man in elevator shoes and leather shorts with vest combo dancing above your vodka tonic. The women dancers look quite good in their leopard print thongs, yet somewhat out of place in these small bars. Some of the bars are stocked with Eastern-European or South American bartenders. They dance around with each other and refuse to serve you at first sometimes giving it that ol´ "Coyote Ugly" feeling, but they don't suck on the bottles or spray each other with beer. Damn.

So this pretty much describes the wacky-ass bar scene for both the participants and spectators of the X Qualifiers here in Barcelona. I hung out at the events then watched the same people move from the Port Olimpic area to their comfortable perch at the nearby disco-bar to slowly but surely drink their way into Spanish night oblivion. Besides talking rapidly and excitedly about the events there was always that special chance of seeing one of the competitors. It seemed that everyone was poised on the brink of eruption just for the chance to see someone who rides - waiting like a compressed spring for the one moment when someone with the appeal of Eduardo Terreros would walk into the spot and the place would go wild with beer fuelled approval. With a crowd of 20,000 present at the X Qualifiers the bars along Moll de Mestral were definitely the place to be this weekend - Viva Espana!

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